Jeffrey Grosset wears the unchallenged mantle of Australia’s foremost riesling maker. Grosset’s pre-eminence is recognised both domestically and internationally; however, he merits equal recognition for the other wines in his portfolio: chardonnay and pinot noir from the Adelaide Hills and Gaia, a bordeaux blend from the Clare Valley; Apiana Fiano and Nereus, a shiraz-based wine with a touch of nero d’Avola. Jeffrey's quietly spoken manner conceals a steely will. Four estate-owned vineyards in the Clare Valley are certified organic and biodynamic. -JAMES HALLIDAY