Owned and run by the Hill-Smith family, Yalumba has a long commitment to quality and great vision in its selection of vineyard sites, new varieties and brands. It has always been a serious player at the top end of full-bodied Australian reds and was a pioneer in the use of screwcaps. It has a proud history of lateral thinking and rapid decision-making by a small group led by Robert Hill-Smith. The synergy of the range of brands, varieties and prices is obvious, but it received added lustre with the creation of The Caley. -JAMES HALLIDAY