Aromas of raspberries and plums mingled with hints of orange rind, sweet spices and forest floor introduce Bouley’s 2019 Volnay Village, a medium to full-bodied, supple and seamless wine that’s lively and penetrating, concluding with a long, saline finish. As I’ve written before, this cuvée blends the rich, clay soils of lieux-dits Poisots, Famines and Cros Martin with the thinner, whiter soils of Ez Blanches above the Clos de Chênes; but in 2019, the wine’s tone is set by Ez Blanches, even if it only amounts to one-third of the blend.
